Shop

New Customer
  info@wiredwatts.com   +1(860) Got-Watts
*96% of Orders Ship
in 24 Hours or Less

32026 Mounting Plate Installation Manual

Work In Progress

These set of instructions are incomplete and a work in progress. Some of the information is incorrect.

Overview

This manual should be used as an assembly guide for the 32026 mounting plate kit into a Bud Industries NBF-32026 or equivalent enclosure box. The manual assumes you will be mounting a controller, one to four power supplies, a number of light string pigtails, power cords, and optional vents into a Bud Industries NBF-32026 or equivalent enclosure. These items are sold separately from the 32026 mounting plate. A contents list is provided for the mounting plate and prerequisites are listed below for required and optional items to be used during the assembly.

This mounting plate will allow you to mount four power supplies and a controller of choice into a Bud Industries NBF-32026 style enclosure. The mounting plate kit complements the NBF-32026 box with a drill pattern for up to 33 glanded string outputs and up to six RJ45 style glands with two power cords. An optional vent can be installed on one or both side of the enclosure.

Compatibility

The following controllers and accessories have pre-drilled / pre-planned mounting locations

  • Falcon F16v3
  • Falcon F16v4
  • Falcon Differential Expansion Board v3
  • Falcon Differential Expansion Board v4
  • Falcon String Expansion Board v3
  • Falcon String Expansion Board v4
  • Kulp Lights K16A-B
  • Kulp Lights K32A-B

The 32026 mounting plate is compatible with the following Bud Industries enclosures.

  • NBF-32026
  • NBF-32126
  • NBF-32226
  • NBF-32326
  • NBF-32426

Mounting Plate Kit Contents

  • 1 × Black Bottom Mounting Plate
  • 1 × Clear Top Mounting Plate
  • 4 × Black Power Supply Standoff Plates
  • 6 × 2.5” ¼-20 Carriage Bolt
  • 4 × 5” ¼-20 Carriage Bolt
  • 6 × ¼-20 Hex Nut
  • 4 × ¼-20 Wing Nut
  • 8 × 0.5” Pex Spacer
  • 2 × 2.25” Pex Spacer
  • 2 × 4.125” Pex Spacer
  • 16 × M4 8mm Screws
  • 12 × M3 16mm Screws
  • 12 × M3 Lock Nuts
  • 12 × M4 Nylon Spacers
  • 4 × #10 Screws

Tools Required

  • Phillips Head #2 Screwdriver or Drill
  • 5/8 Socket Wrench or Crescent Wrench
  • 5.5mm Nut Driver or Needle-Nose Pliers

Optional Tools and Accessories

  • 17mm Socket Wrench or Open-End Wrench
  • 16mm Socket Wrench or Open-End Wrench
  • 14mm Socket Wrench or Open-End Wrench
  • Wire Stripper (Preferably not the automatic type)
  • Razor Blade / Box Cutter / Utility Knife / Exacto Knife
  • Jokari Wire Stripper
  • Double Sided Sticky Tape

Prerequisites

If the mounting plates will be used with four power supplies, it requires the use of 1U / low profile power supplies. If only two will be used, standard height, 2 inch power supplies will suffice. For an easier assembly, the mounting plate will be assembled outside of the enclosure before installing it. In doing so, the enclosure will need to be close by as the power cords should be installed through the enclosure and into the power supplies while still outside of the enclosure.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Drill your enclosure. If utilizing a pre-drilled style enclosure, skip to Step 2. If using an uncut enclosure, it would be wise to pre-drill all the holes needed before assembling anything further. A drill guide can be found at wiredwatts.com/drillstuff. If utilizing the provided drill pattern, be sure to only cut what you need. The pattern allows for 33 gland holes and 6 RJ45 holes, most installs only need 5 RJ45 and 32 small gland holes. Now would also be a good time to drill out a hole for a vent if you require one in your build.
  2. Pre install all PG7, PG9, and Network Glands. Unscrew the PG7 and PG9 glands completely and remove the rubber grommets inside. Insert the glands through the outside of the box to the inside and secure them with the nut that was previously removed. Use the 14mm long socket outside the box to hold the gland in place and use the 15mm socket inside the box to tighten the nut to the box. Do not over-tighten. Do this for all PG7 and PG9 glands. Prepare the network glands by removing the fastening nut on one side. Insert the network gland through the outside of the box to the inside, and secure it with the previously removed nut. Use the 17mm wrench on the outside of the box to hold the gland in place, and the 19mm socket on the inside of the box to tighten the nut. Do not over-tighten.
  3. Install AC Power Cables. Use the outside rounded nut from the PG9 glands and put them over the 18 AWG power cables in a way so the outside hole will rest upon the male end of the power cable. Install the rubber grommet from the PG9 gland on to the power cable. Insert the raw ends of the power cables through the PG9 glands on the bottom left of the box. Pull the cables all the way through the box but do not fasten the locking nuts or grommets.
  4. Install the power supplies. Use eight of the M4 8mm screws to attach the first two power supplies to the Black Bottom Mounting Plate. If looking at the plate, the logo should be upright and the power supplies should have their terminal blocks facing left. Once installed, if using four power supplies, install the four Black Power Supply Standoff Plates to the bottom of the remaining two power supplies using the remaining eight M4 8mm screws. Both plates should be installed in the same direction so the plate on the terminal end is right against the lip of the terminal side. Install the six 2.5” ¼-20 Carriage Bolts into the center and bottom set of center holes in the Black Bottom Mounting Plate. Install two of the 5” ¼-20 Carriage bolts into the top two holes in the Black Bottom Mounting Plate. Put all eight bolts through the bottom of the plate so they come out on the side of the previously installed power supplies. Place a 1.5” Pex Spacer on all eight of the Carriage Bolts. Place the second tier of power supplies on to the Carriage bolts. In doing so, use the holes on each plate that are closest to the terminal block, this will create an offset to allow you to adjust both sets of power supplies without removing the top tier. Fasten the shorter Carriage Bolts with the six ¼-20 Hex Nuts. If you fasten them tightly, the Carriage Bolts should pull into the bottom of the plate for a flush fit. Add the 2.25” Pex Spacers to the 5” Carriage Bolts and use two of the ¼-20 Wing Nuts to fasten the Carriage bolts down. If you fasten them tightly, the Carriage Bolts should pull into the bottom of the plate for a flush fit.
  5. Install the controller boards. If utilizing a Falcon controller system, use up to twelve of the M3 16mm screws, Nylon Spacers, and Lock Nuts to fasten the boards directly to the Clear Top Mounting Plate. Four screws, spacers, and nuts should be used for each of up to three boards attached to this plate. A 5.5mm nut driver or set of pliers can be used on the back side of the Clear Top Mounting Plate to hold the lock nuts while fastening them. The screw should go all the way through the nut to create a tight fit. If utilizing a Kulp Lights controller, remove the Beaglebone Black / Green from the controller if previously installed. Fasten the controller loosely to the Clear Top Mounting Plate utilizing between 5 and 7 M3 16mm Screws, Nylon Spacers, and Lock Nuts. Once the controller is loosely fitted to the Clear Top Mounting Plate, attach the Beaglebone to the controller on the bottom side of the Clear Top Mounting Plate. Once the Beaglebone has been installed, use a 5.5mm nut driver or set of pliers on the back side of the Clear Top Mounting Plate to hold the lock nuts while fastening them. The screw should go all the way through the nut to create a tight fit. Now is a good time to install and secure the SD Card Extender (if applicable) with some double sided tape to the top of the Clear Top Mounting Plate.
  6. Measure, cut, and install DC Wiring
  7. Prepare the AC Power Cables for attachment. Use the Jokari Wire Stripper or a utility knife to strip off an additional 4 to 6 inches of the black surrounding protection sheath from the end of the power cables. You should have roughly 6 inches of the three conductor protected wire exposed. Use your wire stripper to make a cut into the wire around an inch away from the black protective sheath. Pull on the protective covering to expose roughly half an inch of copper on each of the three conductor lines. Twist the line to keep them in order. Use the wire stripper to cut another half inch of the protective insulator from the end of each of the wires. Once complete, you should have two conductive spots on the wire for use as a jumper.
  8. Install the AC Power Cables to the Power Supplies.
  9. Insert the mounting plate into the enclosure.
  10. Gland the pigtails and connect them to the controller.
  11. Connect your Network Glands.
  12. Power on and test.
Originally Published 9/1/2022 EST
Updated 9/15/2022 6:41 AM EST
By Ken MacMaster