32022 Mounting Plate Installation Manual
- 32022 Mounting Plate Installation Manual
Work In Progress
These set of instructions are incomplete and a work in progress. Some of the information is incorrect.
This manual should be used as an assembly guide for the 32022 mounting plate kit into a Bud Industries NBF-32022 or equivalent enclosure box. The manual assumes you will be mounting a controller, one to three power supplies, a number of light string pigtails, power cord, and optional vents into a Bud Industries NBF-32022 or equivalent enclosure. These items are sold separately from the 32022 mounting plate. A contents list is provided for the mounting plate and prerequisites are listed below for required and optional items to be used during the assembly.
This mounting plate will allow you to mount up to three power supplies and a controller of choice into a Bud Industries NBF-32022 style enclosure. The mounting plate kit complements the NBF-32022 box with a drill pattern for up to 24 glanded string outputs and up to five RJ45 style glands with a power cord. An optional vent can be installed on one or both side of the enclosure.
The following controllers and accessories have pre-drilled / pre-planned mounting locations
- Falcon F16v3
- Falcon F16v4
- Falcon F48v1
- Falcon F48v4
- Falcon Differential Expansion Board v3
- Falcon Differential Expansion Board v4
- Falcon String Expansion Board v3
- Falcon String Expansion Board v4
- Kulp Lights K16A-B
- Kulp Lights K8-B
- Kulp Lights K8-PB
The 32022 mounting plate is compatible with the following Bud Industries enclosures.
Mounting Plate Kit Contents
- 1 × Black Bottom Mounting Plate
- 2 × Black Power Supply Standoff Plates
- 4 × 2.5” ¼-20 Carriage Bolt
- 4 × ¼-20 Hex Nut
- 4 × 0.5” Pex Spacer
- 8 × M4 8mm Screws
- 5 × M3 16mm Screws
- 7 × M3 Lock Nuts
- 7 × M4 Nylon Spacers
- 2 × M3 20mm Screws
- 4 × #10 Screws
- Phillips Head #2 Screwdriver or Drill
- 5/8 Socket Wrench or Crescent Wrench
- 5.5mm Nut Driver or Needle-Nose Pliers
Optional Tools and Accessories
- 17mm Socket Wrench or Open-End Wrench
- 16mm Socket Wrench or Open-End Wrench
- 14mm Socket Wrench or Open-End Wrench
- Wire Stripper (Preferably not the automatic type)
- Razor Blade / Box Cutter / Utility Knife / Exacto Knife
- Jokari Wire Stripper
- Double Sided Sticky Tape
If the mounting plates will be used with two or three power supplies, it requires the use of 1U / low profile power supplies. If only one will be used, standard height, 2 inch power supplies will suffice. For an easier assembly, the mounting plate will be assembled outside of the enclosure before installing it. In doing so, the enclosure will need to be close by as the power cord should be installed through the enclosure and into the power supplies while still outside of the enclosure.
- Drill your enclosure. If utilizing a pre-drilled style enclosure, skip to Step 2. If using an uncut enclosure, it would be wise to pre-drill all the holes needed before assembling anything further. A drill guide can be found at wiredwatts.com/drillstuff. If utilizing the provided drill pattern, be sure to only cut what you need. The pattern allows for 24 gland holes and 5 RJ45 holes, most installs only need 5 RJ45 and 16 small gland holes. Now would also be a good time to drill out a hole for a vent if you require one in your build.
- Pre install all PG7, PG9, and Network Glands. Unscrew the PG7 and PG9 glands completely and remove the rubber grommets inside. Insert the glands through the outside of the box to the inside and secure them with the nut that was previously removed. Use the 14mm long socket outside the box to hold the gland in place and use the 15mm socket inside the box to tighten the nut to the box. Do not over-tighten. Do this for all PG7 and PG9 glands. Prepare the network glands by removing the fastening nut on one side. Insert the network gland through the outside of the box to the inside, and secure it with the previously removed nut. Use the 17mm wrench on the outside of the box to hold the gland in place, and the 19mm socket on the inside of the box to tighten the nut. Do not over-tighten.
- Install AC Power Cables. Use the outside rounded nut from the PG9 glands and put them over the 18 AWG power cable in a way so the outside hole will rest upon the male end of the power cable. Install the rubber grommet from the PG9 gland on to the power cable. Insert the raw ends of the power cable through the PG9 glands on the top left of the box. Pull the cables all the way through the box but do not fasten the locking nuts or grommets.
- Install the first power supply. Use four of the M4 8mm screws to attach the first power supply to the Black Bottom Mounting Plate. If looking at the plate, the logo should be upright and the power supply should have its terminal block facing left.
- Install the controller boards. If utilizing a Falcon controller system, use four of the M3 16mm screws, Nylon Spacers, and Lock Nuts to fasten the boards directly to the Black Bottom Mounting Plate. A 5.5mm nut driver or set of pliers can be used on the back side of the Black Bottom Mounting Plate to hold the lock nuts while fastening them. The screw should go all the way through the nut to create a tight fit. If utilizing a Kulp Lights controller, remove the Beaglebone Black / Green from the controller if previously installed. Fasten the controller loosely to the Black Bottom Mounting Plate utilizing five M3 16mm Screws, Nylon Spacers, and Lock Nuts. Once the controller is loosely fitted to the Black Bottom Mounting Plate, attach the Beaglebone to the controller on the bottom side of the Black Bottom Mounting Plate. Once the Beaglebone has been installed, use a 5.5mm nut driver or set of pliers on the back side of the Black Bottom Mounting Plate to hold the lock nuts while fastening them. The screw should go all the way through the nut to create a tight fit. Now is a good time to install and secure the SD Card Extender (if applicable) to the Beaglebone.
- Measure, cut, and install DC Wiring
- Prepare the AC Power Cables for attachment. Use the Jokari Wire Stripper or a utility knife to strip off an additional 4 to 6 inches of the black surrounding protection sheath from the end of the power cable. You should have roughly 6 inches of the three conductor protected wire exposed. Use your wire stripper to make a cut into the wire around an inch away from the black protective sheath. Pull on the protective covering to expose roughly half an inch of copper on each of the three conductor lines. Twist the line to keep them in order. Use the wire stripper to cut another half inch of the protective insulator from the end of each of the wires. Once complete, you should have two conductive spots on the wire for use as a jumper.
- Install the AC Power Cables to the Power Supplies.
- Install the second power supply. Once installed, if using two or three power supplies, install the two Black Power Supply Standoff Plates to the bottom of the remaining power supplies using the remaining M4 8mm screws. Both plates should be installed in the same direction so the plate on the terminal end is right against the lip of the terminal side. Install the two 2.5” ¼-20 Carriage Bolts into the center set of holes in the Black Bottom Mounting Plate. Put all four bolts through the bottom of the plate so they come out on the side of the previously installed power supply. Place a 1.5” Pex Spacer on all four of the Carriage Bolts. Place the second power supply on to the Carriage bolts. In doing so, use the holes on each plate that are closest to the terminal block. Fasten the Carriage Bolts with the four ¼-20 Hex Nuts. If you fasten them tightly, the Carriage Bolts should pull into the bottom of the plate for a flush fit.
- Insert the mounting plate into the enclosure.
- Gland the pigtails and connect them to the controller.
- Connect your Network Glands.
- Power on and test.
Originally Published 9/1/2022 EST
Updated 9/15/2022 6:41 AM EST
By Ken MacMaster